Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 18 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 6.6 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2023).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.3 (2022)
Latest Articles
A Mn (II) Quinoline Complex (4QMn) Mitigates Oxidative Damage Induced by Ultraviolet Radiation and Protein Aggregation
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030095 - 6 Jun 2024
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Solar radiation, specifically ultraviolet radiation (UVR), is one of the harmful external factors that affect the integrity of the skin upon sun overexposure. Its detrimental effects include skin aging (photoaging), pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer. Upon UVR exposure, a cascade of different cellular
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Solar radiation, specifically ultraviolet radiation (UVR), is one of the harmful external factors that affect the integrity of the skin upon sun overexposure. Its detrimental effects include skin aging (photoaging), pigmentation disorders, and skin cancer. Upon UVR exposure, a cascade of different cellular responses is initiated, giving rise to inflammatory processes, oxidative stress, protein misfolding, and DNA lesions, among other effects. Therefore, there is a growing need to explore and characterize new compounds for safeguarding the skin from solar radiation-induced damage. In this work, we analyze the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacities of the Mn (II) quinone complex (4QMn) in different cellular models and human skin explants. Importantly, our results suggest that 4QMn is able to ameliorate the oxidative damage produced by protein aggregation by reducing ROS levels, mitochondrial ROS (MitoROS), and DNA oxidative damage (8OH-dG) in a protein accumulation model. These findings suggest that the 4QMn compound could mitigate the deleterious effects of different sources of oxidative damage.
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Open AccessArticle
Chemical Profile and Antioxidant and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Chamaemelum nobile L. Green Extracts
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Luciana Maria Polcaro, Antonietta Cerulli, Francesco Montella, Elena Ciaglia, Milena Masullo and Sonia Piacente
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030094 - 6 Jun 2024
Abstract
The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile)
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The request for skin-whitening agents and bioactive principles able to control hyperpigmentation disorders is continuously growing. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is used as a remedy for skin diseases, but little is known about the ability of Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) to act as a skin-whitening agent. With the aim to investigate antioxidant and lightening potential, fresh aerial parts of C. nobile were extracted by maceration, ultrasound-assisted extraction, and solid–liquid dynamic (SLDE-Naviglio) extraction using EtOH/H2O mixtures. Moreover, 32 metabolites (flavonoids, sesquiterpenoids, amides, and polar fatty acids) were identified by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry. Principal component analysis revealed how the extract EtOH/H2O 50% (Naviglio and long maceration), along with the extract EtOH/H2O 60% (maceration) were richest in flavonoids. All extracts were tested by TEAC and DPPH assays, and to determine their in vitro antioxidant activity, the DHR 123 probe–intracellular ROS assay in HaCaT cells, for some extracts, was performed. Moreover, their ability to exert a whitening effect was tested by analyzing their tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The quantitative determination of apigenin, known as a natural tyrosinase inhibitor, was performed by LC-ESI/QTrap/MS/MS using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method. These results are promising for selecting an extraction method to obtain a sustainable product rich in bioactives.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Electrospray-Mangiferin Nanoparticles Gel: A Promising Agent for Sun and Age Defense
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Neungreuthai Chomchoei, Pimporn Leelapornpisid, Pratchaya Tipduangta, Jakkapan Sirithunyalug, Busaban Sirithunyalug and Pawitrabhorn Samutrtai
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030093 - 5 Jun 2024
Abstract
UV irradiation causes skin damage and aging. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel formulation loaded with electrospray mangiferin nanoparticles (MNPs) as a double-action product with photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The MNPs were prepared using the electrospraying technique and loaded in
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UV irradiation causes skin damage and aging. This study aimed to develop and evaluate a gel formulation loaded with electrospray mangiferin nanoparticles (MNPs) as a double-action product with photoprotective and anti-aging properties. The MNPs were prepared using the electrospraying technique and loaded in a gel formulation. The MNP formulation was evaluated regarding its physical appearance, viscosity, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF), and in vitro anti-oxidant activity and compared with a formulation containing purified mangiferin (PM) at the same concentration of 0.2% (w/v). Moreover, both formulations were analyzed for their in vitro release and ex vivo skin permeation. The MNP formulation had a considerably higher SPF value than the PM formulation at the same concentration (20.43 ± 0.13 and 12.19 ± 0.27, respectively). The in vitro anti-oxidant activities of the formulations with MNPs and PM were 74.47 ± 2.19% and 80.52 ± 1.05%, respectively. The MNP formulation showed potent photoprotective and anti-oxidation activities with acceptable stability in all parameters under accelerated conditions (4 ± 2 °C 48 h/45 ± 2 °C 48 h for 6 cycles) and after 30 days of storage under various conditions. The release profile data of the MNPs showed a controlled release pattern at 76.97 ± 0.06% at 480 min. Furthermore, after using a Franz diffusion cell for 8 h, the MNP formulation showed the release of 37.01 ± 2.61% and 22.39 ± 1.59% of mangiferin content in the skin layer as stratum corneum and viable epidermis, respectively. Therefore, the overall results demonstrate that electrospray MNPs in a gel formulation are suitable for skin and constitute a promising delivery system for mangiferin in developing cosmetics and cosmeceutical products with good potential.
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Open AccessArticle
The Comparative Efficacy and Safety of 250 μm versus 350 μm Long Microneedle Patch on Under-Eye Skin
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Apisama Arepagorn, Jitlada Meephansan, Punyaphat Sirithanabadeekul, Kittipong Tantisantisom, Sattra Thongma, Yossawat Rayanasukha, Thitikorn Boonkoom and Paisan Khanchaitit
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030092 - 5 Jun 2024
Abstract
Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were
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Background: Microneedle patch (MNP) technology is now applied for many purposes, including transdermal drug delivery and percutaneous collagen induction in the cosmetic and dermatology fields. Previous research showed that a MNP effectively improved skin appearance, while treatments using larger or deeper microneedles were not easily tolerated by human subjects. Few studies have compared MNP designs in humans. Study Objective: To compare novel MNP designs with high length and low density versus low length and high density for rejuvenating skin wrinkles under the eyes. Methods: This non-randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted as a double-blind study with 36 Thai female participants. Each participant was treated with two different MNP designs, one on each side of the face. The microneedle lengths were 250 μm with a density of 945 needles/cm2 on the left side of the face under the eye and 350 μm with a density of 482 needles/cm2 on the right side of the face under the eye. The treatments were applied for 12 weeks, with the assessment outcomes evaluated at the baseline and 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 weeks. Results: The application of these two novel MNP designs successfully rejuvenated under-eye wrinkles with low pain level scores. Increasing the length of the needle or having a 350 μm long MN can better reduce under-eye wrinkles without statistical significance. During the study period, there was an improvement in skin surface roughness in both groups accompanied by a consistent reduction in under-eye skin wrinkles, without statistically significant differences observed between the groups when using the Antera 3D system. However, the 350 μm long MN also slightly increased the pain compared to the shorter needles (250 μm long MN) with a higher density of needles. There were no side effects associated with the two designs. Conclusions: The two novel MNPs gave favorable results as a safe non-invasive treatment for the rejuvenation of skin wrinkles under the eyes. Increasing the number of needles and increasing the length of the needles were both effective in safely reducing under-eye wrinkles without any adverse effects. Additionally, participants could self-apply them at home and were highly satisfied. However, increasing the length of the needles may result in slightly more pain compared to increasing the number of needles.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Towards the Development of a Cream with Antiviral Properties Targeting Both the Influenza A Virus and SARS-CoV-2
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Philippe Mangeot, Kristell Lazou, Aurelia Blin, Valerie Gorzelanczyk, Olivier Jeanneton, Chantal Kurfurst, Karl Pays, Bruno Bavouzet, Carine Nizard, Theophile Ohlmann and Anne-Laure Bulteau
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 91; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030091 - 4 Jun 2024
Abstract
Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019
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Objective: Many severe acute respiratory infections are caused by viral pathogens, and viruses are responsible for a large number of deaths worldwide. Among the most common respiratory viruses are the influenza A virus (IAV) and, more recently, the SARS-CoV-2 that emerged in 2019 and caused the most significant human pandemic of the beginning of the 21st century. Both IAV and SARS-CoV-2 share clinical features and a common transmission route through the emission of viral particles via aerosols and droplets. These penetrate the host after entry from the nose and mouth or an indirect mode of transmission via contact contamination of different media. These facts prompted us to investigate the possibility of designing a soft cream with a virucidal activity targeted against IAV and SARS-CoV-2. Methods: We first investigated the action of chemical compounds known to have antiviral properties such as cyclodextrin, or algae extracts containing sulfated polysaccharides, on cultured cells infected with lentiviral viral particles pseudotyped (VP) with either proteins HA (hemagglutinin) and NA (neuraminidase) from IAV or the G protein from the vesicular stomatitis virus or spike-bearing particles in order to select molecules with antiviral activities in human embryonic kidney (HEK293T) cells. Results: Our results show that some cyclodextrin-containing creams can significantly reduce the stability of HANA- and spike-bearing particles when they are applied prior to challenge with a viral inoculum on skin. Conclusions: We observed some specificities of these creams towards either IAV or SARS-CoV-2, indicating that the neutralization of viral activity is correlated with the mechanism of receptor interaction and entry of these two pathogens.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Disturbances in the Skin Homeostasis: Wound Healing, an Undefined Process
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Montserrat Férnandez-Guarino, Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez and Stefano Bacci
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 90; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030090 - 4 Jun 2024
Abstract
This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the
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This review was written with the aim of examining the effects that cause an insult, such as a wound, to an organ, such as the skin. Before examining the cellular mechanisms relating to wound healing, the reader is invited to read about the structure of the skin as a necessary basis for understanding the final aim of this review. The structure of the skin as a basis for understanding the phenomena relating to wound healing is addressed, taking into account the updated literature that addresses the numerous problems of the skin microenvironment. Starting from this awareness, the paragraphs dedicated to wound healing become complicated when this phenomenon is not implemented and therefore while the problems of chronic wounds, keloids, and hypertrophic scars are addressed, these are pathologies that are still difficult to understand and treat today.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessCommunication
Comparing a Low-Fluence Picosecond 1064 nm Nd:YAG Laser with a 532 nm Nd:YAG Laser for the Treatment of Pigmented Lesions in Chinese Patients: A Retrospective Analysis
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Po-Hsuan Lu, Xiao-Feng Yao, Yang-Chih Lin and Pa-Fan Hsiao
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030089 - 3 Jun 2024
Abstract
The use of low-fluence picosecond (LFPS) 1064 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) lasers, referred to as laser toning, is increasingly acknowledged as an effective treatment for pigmentation disorders in the Asian skin phenotype. This study aimed to conduct a comparative analysis on
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The use of low-fluence picosecond (LFPS) 1064 nm neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) lasers, referred to as laser toning, is increasingly acknowledged as an effective treatment for pigmentation disorders in the Asian skin phenotype. This study aimed to conduct a comparative analysis on the effectiveness and safety of utilizing LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG lasers against picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG lasers in treating pigmented lesions among Chinese patients. A retrospective photographic analysis and chart reviews were performed on 31 subjects exhibiting Fitzpatrick skin types III–VI who underwent LFPS 1064 nm Nd:YAG or picosecond 532 nm Nd:YAG treatments at a single tertiary center. Utilizing VISIA Complexion Analysis, comparative photographs were taken. Two independent physicians evaluated treatment efficacy using a visual analog scale (VAS) to assess the percentage of pigmentary clearance in standard photographs. Solar lentigines were the most prevalent pigmentary disorder, followed by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), nevus zygomaticus, melasma, freckles, and nevus of Ota. The clinical effectiveness of picosecond 532 nm and LFPS 1064 nm laser treatments proved comparable for lesions on the face, with mean VAS scores of 2.2 ± 1.1 and 1.8 ± 0.8, respectively. There were two cases of PIH in the picosecond 532 nm group, which resolved within one month. Overall, the LFPS 1064 nm laser demonstrates promise as a safe and efficient therapeutic modality for managing pigmented lesions in Chinese patients.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)
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Open AccessCommunication
Deodorant Efficacy of Xylityl Sesquicaprylate Vehiculated into Roll-on and Stick Prototype Formulations
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Lilian Mussi, André Rolim Baby, Cecilia Nogueira, Flávio Bueno de Camargo Junior and Wagner Vidal Magalhães
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 88; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030088 - 31 May 2024
Abstract
Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in
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Given the burgeoning global market for deodorant products, it is paramount to develop novel, safe, and efficacious molecules that align with the cosmetic industry’s trend toward active compounds sourced from natural, sustainable, and renewable sources. In this context, we in vitro and in vivo investigated the deodorant potential of xylityl sesquicaprylate, a compound that, besides other functions, has antimicrobial activity. We performed the time–kill test to challenge the xylityl sesquicaprylate against Staphylococcus epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, and Corynebacterium xerosis and in vivo trial efficacy was established through a sniff test using two deodorant prototype formulations containing xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w). The xylityl sesquicaprylate at 0.35% (w/w) in glycerin presented in vitro deodorant activity through a bactericide/bacteriostatic profile against S. epidermidis, S. aureus, and C. xerosis. The in vivo efficacy trial performed by the sniffers through a single application of the roll-on and the stick prototype formulations added to the developed active compound deodorant’s effectiveness with a reduction in axillary bad odor, in comparison to the respective blank sample, for 2, 4, 8, and 12 h. When the deodorant efficacy was evaluated subjectively by the participants, there was always no difference between the stick sample and the blank; however, the roll-on deodorant was perceived as effective after 4 and 8 h of a single application of the sample, as established by the volunteers.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Open AccessArticle
Effectiveness of a Complex Antioxidant Product Applied by Sonophoresis and Micro-Needle Mesotherapy
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Anna Jaros-Sajda, Elzbieta Budzisz and Anna Erkiert-Polguj
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 87; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030087 - 30 May 2024
Abstract
Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated
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Antioxidants (including Vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin) are among the compounds used in skincare products. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a combination containing L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and phloretin. The delivery of active substances was facilitated by micro-needle mesotherapy and sonophoresis. The study was completed by 22 volunteers. The study resulted in a significant reduction of erythema and an improvement in skin hydration. According to participants, the therapy yielded visible anti-aging effects. The combination of up to three antioxidant-active ingredients and the use of transdermal application methods proved to be both safe and effective.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Physicochemical Properties of a Bioactive Polysaccharide Film from Cassia grandis with Immobilized Collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573)
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Kétura Ferreira, Kethylen Cardoso, Romero Brandão-Costa, Joana T. Martins, Cláudia Botelho, Anna Neves, Thiago Nascimento, Juanize Batista, Éverton Ferreira, Fernando Damasceno, Amanda Sales-Conniff, Wendell Albuquerque, Ana Porto and José Teixeira
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030086 - 29 May 2024
Abstract
(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized
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(1) Background: Polysaccharide films are promising vehicles for the delivery of bioactive agents such as collagenases, as they provide controlled release at the wound site, facilitating tissue regeneration. This study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of Cassia grandis polysaccharide films with immobilized collagenase from Streptomyces parvulus (DPUA/1573). (2) Methods: Galactomannan was extracted from Cassia grandis seeds for film production with 0.8% (w/v) galactomannan and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol with or without collagenases. The films underwent physical-chemical analyses: Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), color and opacity (luminosity-L*, green to red-a*, yellow to blue-b*, opacity-Y%), moisture content, water vapor permeability (WVP), thickness, contact angle, and mechanical properties. (3) Results: The results showed similar FTIR spectra to the literature, indicating carbonyl functional groups. Immobilizing bioactive compounds increased surface roughness observed in SEM. TGA indicated a better viability for films with immobilized S. parvulus enzymes. Both collagenase-containing and control films exhibited a bright-yellowish color with slight opacity (Y%). Mechanical tests revealed decreased rigidity in PCF (−25%) and SCF (−41%) and increased deformability in films with the immobilized bioactive compounds, PCF (234%) and SCF (295%). (4) Conclusions: Polysaccharide-based films are promising biomaterials for controlled composition, biocompatibility, biodegradability, and wound healing, with a potential in pharmacological applications.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Nanotechnology for Effective Epilation: Assessment of the Application of a Protease-Containing Microemulsion
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Monika Skórka, Manfred Gahrtz, Maria D. Chatzidaki, Aristotelis Xenakis and Thomas Whitfield
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030085 - 29 May 2024
Abstract
Background: Epilation is a very effective way to remove unwanted hair because of its long-lasting effects. However, there are some disadvantages such as pain during the procedure, the possibility of ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. In the present study, we investigated whether a
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Background: Epilation is a very effective way to remove unwanted hair because of its long-lasting effects. However, there are some disadvantages such as pain during the procedure, the possibility of ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation. In the present study, we investigated whether a protease-containing post-epilation microemulsion is effective in improving epilation performance and alleviating the above problems. Methods: The application characteristics and effects of the tested microemulsion were evaluated during and after three applications in 30 female volunteers. This was conducted by measuring hair density, assessing hair strength, and evaluating the subjective experience of the volunteers using a questionnaire. Results: The measurements showed that after three applications, the apparent hair density in the axilla was reduced from 43.89 ± 12.44 hairs/cm2 to 16.67 ± 6.61 hairs/cm2 (p < 0.0001). In general, volunteers observed a reduced hair regrowth rate, resulting in longer epilation intervals, and more soothed and moisturized skin. Volunteers who previously experienced ingrown hairs or perifollicular inflammation reported the absence or improvement of these problems. Conclusions: The protease-containing microemulsion not only improves the performance of the epilation procedure, leading to less frequent epilation, but also improves possible negative effects of epilation such as ingrown hairs and perifollicular inflammation.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Nanotechnology Advances in Cosmetics)
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Natural Extracts and Essential Oils as Ingredients in Cosmetics: Search for Potential Phytomarkers and Allergen Survey
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Laura Rubio, Andrea Pita, Carmen Garcia-Jares and Marta Lores
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030084 - 24 May 2024
Abstract
The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized
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The increasing use of natural ingredients such as essential oils (EOs) and natural extracts (NEs) in cosmetics is an analytical and legislative challenge due to their complex composition, which includes recognized allergenic compounds. In this work, 17 EOs and NEs have been characterized by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS) of dilutions of the original samples. Additionally, solid phase microextraction (SPME) was applied for the analysis of volatile components. The results obtained allowed the identification of more than 90 compounds, including 20 allergens, in the analyzed samples and the study of potential phytomarkers of the addition of EOs and ENs in cosmetics.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
Open AccessArticle
A Randomized Controlled Prospective Cohort Study on the Efficacy of a Witch Hazel Extract Cream for the Eyelids and Eye Contour Area and a Cleansing Face Cream in Dermatitis of the Eyelids
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Federica Veronese, Elia Esposto, Chiara Airoldi, Nunzia Di Cristo, Pamela Paganini, Paola Savoia and Elisa Zavattaro
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030083 - 22 May 2024
Abstract
Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream
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Background: Eyelid dermatitis is a common, multifactorial, chronic, and/or relapsing condition with a considerable impact on life quality that represents a diagnostic and treatment challenge. Methods: We carried out a single-blind, controlled, randomized, parallel-group study to evaluate the efficacy of two dermo-cosmetics (cream for the eyelids and eye contour area and cleansing face cream) in which the key ingredient was witch hazel extract, compared to generic cream, in the treatment of patients affected by eyelid dermatitis. Enrolled subjects were treated and followed-up for 4 weeks; dermatological evaluation was objectively performed using the DLQI, OSDI, NRS–itch, and EDSI indicators. Results: The products tested proved to be more effective than the placebo in ameliorating the dermatitis in the treated patients, based on all considered dermatological scores. In the treatment arm, we observed a reduction in both DLQI score and in the indicators related to the extension of dermatitis, greater than that observed in the control arm. Conclusions: This comparative study demonstrates the role of dermo-cosmetic products tested not only as a support treatment, but also as a first-choice clinical approach.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Inhibits Melanogenesis via Induction of Autophagy
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Kei Yoshikawa and Kazuhisa Maeda
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030082 - 21 May 2024
Abstract
N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis
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N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis inhibition by Neu5Ac. We discovered that a reduction in tyrosinase protein levels led to an inhibition of melanin production by Neu5Ac. Additionally, the mRNA and protein levels of ubiquitin-specific protease (USP5) and microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II increased, while those of p62 decreased, indicating enhanced autophagic activity. Lysosomal cathepsin L2 protein levels also increased, and immunostaining revealed colocalization of lysosomal membrane protein (LAMP)-1 and tyrosinase. Additionally, levels of chaperonin containing T-complex polypeptide (CCT), implicated in increased autophagic flux, were elevated. Altogether, these findings suggest that tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles are transported by Neu5Ac into the autophagic degradation pathway, suppressing mature melanosome generation. This process involves increased USP5 levels preventing recognition of polyubiquitin by proteasomes. Furthermore, elevated CCT3 protein levels may enhance autophagic flux, leading to the incorporation of tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles into autophagosomes. These autophagosomes then fuse with lysosomes for cathepsin L2–mediated degradation. Thus, our findings suggest that Neu5Ac reduces tyrosinase activity and inhibits melanosome maturation by promoting selective autophagic degradation of abnormal proteins by p62.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessArticle
Fractional Ablative Carbon Dioxide Laser versus Fractional Non-Ablative 1410 nm Diode Laser in the Treatment of Acne Scars: A Clinical and Immunohistochemical Study
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Mai Abdelraouf Osman, Shaimaa Mohamedadel Fawy, Dalia M. Abouelfadl, Mohamed Fouad Abdel Salam, Amin Sharobim and Abeer Attia Tawfik
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030081 - 20 May 2024
Abstract
Background: Effectively managing acne scars while minimizing consequences is still a challenging task. The primary determinant in selecting and continuing therapy for a specific device is stimulating collagen production and dermal remodeling with the fewest possible complications. Objective: To evaluate the clinical and
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Background: Effectively managing acne scars while minimizing consequences is still a challenging task. The primary determinant in selecting and continuing therapy for a specific device is stimulating collagen production and dermal remodeling with the fewest possible complications. Objective: To evaluate the clinical and immunohistochemical results of ablative fractional carbon dioxide (FCO2) laser versus fractional non-ablative diode laser for treating facial acne scars. Methods and Materials: Thirty patients with atrophic acne scars were included in a split-face comparative study. Right and left facial sides received three sessions of FCO2 and diode laser, respectively, at one-month intervals. One month after the third session, patients were evaluated using photographs, the Goodman and Baron qualitative and quantitative global scarring grading system, the investigator’s global assessment, and patient satisfaction. A sample was collected from the area that had been treated, and the tissue was examined using hematoxylin and eosin (H–E) staining and immunohistochemistry staining for collagen I. Results: Goodman and Baron global scores showed a statistically significant difference compared to baseline on both sides of the face. However, there was no statistically significant difference between the two treatment modalities. Biopsy specimens showed an increased deposition of collagen I by both laser devices, which was validated and described by immunohistochemistry staining. Conclusion: Both FCO2 and fractional non-ablative diode lasers proved their efficacy in treating different types of acne scars. For patients who are interested in no downtime and no complications, fractional non-ablative diode laser is recommended as an efficient alternative modality.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
Deciphering the Effects of Different Types of Sunlight Radiation on Skin Function: A Review
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Sophia Letsiou, Elpida Koldiri, Apostolos Beloukas, Efstathios Rallis and Vasiliki Kefala
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 80; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030080 - 20 May 2024
Abstract
Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin
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Sunlight radiation is a fundamental component of our daily lives. Specifically, blue light as well as UV light appear to play a role in the development of oxidative stress, DNA damage, photoaging, and pigmentation through the chromophores in skin tissues. However, several skin problems like psoriasis, eczema, and atopic dermatitis can be avoided with short-duration exposures to low-energy blue light radiation or UV radiation. In addition, exploring the effects of blue light as well as UV radiation on skin is quite essential for the development of minimally invasive antiaging strategies and for the design of innovative cosmetic formulations in modern aesthetics and cosmetology. Thus, in this review, we present the advantages as well as the disadvantages of light radiation, with a special focus on blue light and UV radiation activity on the human skin. We also discuss the molecular action of blue light and UV radiation on human skin. Other types of light radiation are included to holistically approach the effect of light on human skin.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Computational Methods as Part of Scientific Research in Cosmetic Sciences—Are We Using the Opportunity?
by
Laura Krumpholz, Sebastian Polak and Barbara Wiśniowska
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030079 - 14 May 2024
Abstract
In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the
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In the field of the cosmetic industry, significant efforts are made to develop methods that are not only cost effective and time effective but are also environmentally friendly and cruelty free. Cosmetic tests using in vivo animal models are currently banned in the European Union. To fulfil regulatory requirements, new approach methodologies (NAMs) are implemented, and thereupon, in silico techniques have constantly acquired significance. This review aimed to show the general picture of the available computational methods and approaches, give some examples of their applications, present capabilities and limitations, and propose the way forward. The general information about in silico modelling and examples of its usage in the context of cosmetics and its legal regulation are presented. The review is divided with a focus on three endpoints of interest: (1) safety assessment, (2) exposure assessment, and (3) formulation characterization. With this comprehensive analysis, we try to answer the question as to whether we are using the opportunity.
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Open AccessReview
Contact Dermatitis Due to Hair Care Products: A Comprehensive Review
by
Marta Cebolla-Verdugo, Juan Pablo Velasco-Amador and Francisco José Navarro-Triviño
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030078 - 9 May 2024
Abstract
Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider
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Hair cosmetics are in fashion. Numerous products are commonly used in combination. Frequent allergens are present in hair cosmetics, which, with almost daily use, increase the risk of sensitization. Familiarity with the clinical distribution of the eczematous rash is necessary to seriously consider patch testing. Not all the products on the market are haptens. It is necessary to know how to patch your own products. When avoidance of the allergen is not possible, new treatments are evaluated to combat allergic contact dermatitis, mainly of the occupational type. In this manuscript, a complete and practical review of the main allergens and contact sources of hair cosmetic origin has been carried out.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
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Open AccessArticle
Effect of Fermentation and Extraction Techniques on the Physicochemical Composition of Copoazú Butter (Theobroma grandiflorum) as an Ingredient for the Cosmetic Industry
by
Luisa L. Orduz-Díaz, Kimberly Lozano-Garzón, Willian Quintero-Mendoza, Raquel Díaz, Juliana E. C. Cardona-Jaramillo, Marcela P. Carrillo, Diana Carolina Guerrero and Maria Soledad Hernández
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030077 - 8 May 2024
Abstract
The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process
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The Copoazú is a Theobroma species of Amazonian origin, and its derived products have a high content of lipids valuable for both the cosmetic and food industries. The composition of the butter extracted from its seeds can vary depending on the postharvest process and the diverse extraction techniques employed. In this study, the composition of this butter processed with and without seed fermentation was analyzed using two extraction techniques: expeller pressing and hydraulic pressing. Parameters such as lipid profile, quality indexes, melting point, and the content of phytosterols and glyceric compounds were compared with a highly sought-after commercial raw material assessed through standardized volumetric and spectroscopic methodologies. The results showed that non-fermentation and cold-pressing conditions preserved the properties of the butter. This analysis is the first step in a standardized process for developing high-quality cosmetic ingredients derived from Copoazú butter.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessReview
Polyglutamate: Unleashing the Versatility of a Biopolymer for Cosmetic Industry Applications
by
Mónica Serra, Eduardo Gudina, Cláudia Botelho, José António Teixeira and Ana Novo Barros
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 76; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030076 - 8 May 2024
Abstract
Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency,
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Polyglutamic acid (PGA), a biopolymer comprising repeating units of glutamic acid, has garnered significant attention owing to its versatile applications. In recent years, microbial production processes have emerged as promising methods for the large-scale synthesis of PGA, offering advantages such as sustainability, efficiency, and tailored molecular properties. Beyond its industrial applications, PGA exhibits unique properties that render it an attractive candidate for use in the cosmetic industry. The biocompatibility, water solubility, and film-forming characteristics of PGA make it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic formulations. This article explores the extensive potential cosmetic applications of PGA, highlighting its multifaceted role in skincare, haircare, and various beauty products. From moisturizing formulations to depigmentating agents and sunscreen products, PGA offers a wide array of benefits. Its ability to deeply hydrate the skin and hair makes it an ideal ingredient for moisturizers, conditioners, and hydrating masks. Moreover, PGA’s depigmentating properties contribute to the reduction in hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, enhancing the overall complexion. As the demand for sustainable and bio-derived cosmetic ingredients escalates, comprehending the microbial production and cosmetic benefits of PGA becomes crucial for driving innovation in the cosmetic sector.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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